Thursday, March 8, 2018

Cold Connections (For the most part...)


Cold Connections in Jewelry and Metalwork
By
Master Muin maqq Minain

There are many methods to assemble jewelry elements, many of which require heat. Intense heat. Crazy levels of heat! HEAT! HEAT! HEAT! Soldering! Welding! Brazing! Fusing! A plethora of casting methods.
Not every crafter wants to bother with heat methods, some for cost reasons, some for safety concerns…and some because they are snowmen in disguise, infiltrating our world on every level! (Be aware! THEY’RE HERE! Or…not.)

Rivets-
rivet is a form of permanent fastener, once installed it is not an easy process to remove, unlike a screw, or bolt. Before being installed, a rivet consists of a smooth cylindrical shaft with a head on one end. The end opposite to the head is called the tail. On installation, the rivet is placed in a punched or drilled hole, and the tail is upset, so that it expands to be larger than the original shaft diameter, and the hole it passed through, holding the rivet in place. In other words, pounding creates a new "head" on the other end by smashing the "tail" material flatter, resulting in a rivet that is roughly the shape two wheels on an axel.
To distinguish between the two ends of the rivet, the original head is called the factory head and the deformed end is called the buck-tail. For those who need the terminology.

Some basic Rules:
These are not the only kinds of rivets…just a common sampling.
Bring ALL parts as close to completion as you can before you begin riveting.
The tail should be tightly fit to the hole.
The tail should be trimmed for length before you start hammering the upset.
Materials for rivets should be annealed. Work hardened materials, or materials with no natural plasticity will make your task more difficult. Why would you do that to yourself? Weren’t you raised better? Your mother and I worry so much…
You could go blind…
stop that!

Basic Rivets-
-Select a drill and wire of the same size. If you cannot match the wire and drill sizes, use larger wire, and customize the wire (slowly) with file and sand paper.
-Drill the materials you with to connect. Match the holes carefully.
-Insert the rivet into the hole and cut it to a specific length. What length? The rivet should extend ½ the diameter of the wire from each side of the work.
-Set the work on a solid, hard surface, and using a riveting hammer (a fine crosspeen) gently tap the rivet end to spread it. This becomes your factory head.
-Flip the work over, repeating the process on the other side, creating a buck-tail.

Nailhead Rivets-
(Note: Requires Heat… make many ahead of time to have on hand.)
A popular variation of the basic rivet as noted above. This variation is useful for when you need a larger head, either for the look it gives, or for the sake of offering a wider grip on the material.
This can also be a good choice when dealing either with delicate materials, or when the rivet is being placed in a hard to reach area of the design.  Wire of 16 to 24 gauge is best for this method.
-Cut equal lengths of wire, and using a small torch head, bead one end of each wire.
-Slide the tail into the appropriately sized hole of a draw plate. This can be braced on the open jaws of a vice, or simply across two boards of equal thickness. Strike beaded end with a hammer to flatten the new rivet head. (This becomes your factory head.)
-Shape the head to desired parameters.
-Slide the tail into the material you are trying to connect and place the factory head on your riveting surface and trim the tail to desired length. Upset the rivet to create your buck-tail.

Hidden Rivets, and You: The Betrayal and Sadness-
These are also known as “Flush Rivets” and are useful for making connections when you don’t want the connection to be seen.
-Choose rivet material that is of the same alloy as the work you are trying to connect.
-After you drill the holes into the work surface, use a slightly larger drill to create a countersunk hole in both sides of the surface.
-Follow the basic Rivet method (above), filling the countersunk areas with the heads of the rivet.
-File and sand the rivet material flat.-Polish. Polish, LIKE THE WID!!!!

Tube Rivets-
These rivets are perfect for delicate materials, where you do not want to hammer the materials much, risking breakage. (Enameled surfaces, shells, stones, …)
-After having selected the tubing you will be using, drill the appropriate holes in the work. (As with the other forms, a tight fit is your friend. Loose fits will destroy you work.)
-Slide the tube through the work, and trim to size. Standard ½ diameter of riveting material is good here, as well.
-Set a burnisher, or a smooth mandrel into the end of the tube, and flair the tube end out. (Carefully!)
-Reap on the other side.
-Place rivet on a round punch, or improvise with ballpeen hammer head, and tap lightly with another punch (or ballpeen) to curl out the edges of the rivet on both sides.


The Magic of Washers!!!
When you are working with more mailable materials (Leather…Pewter…>shudder< lead…), it may be advisable to include a washer in the assembly process. Make the washer part of the design and make the washer “pretty” and it can cover a myriad of sins.
They MUST be done to fit tightly to be effective.

Tabs!
Tabs provide a simple, and secure cold connection by bending a set of prongs of metal from one piece of metal over another piece, or over that of a stone, gem, shell, bone, or small Muppet. Possibly a Fraggle.
The parent piece of metal the prongs are cut from is called a “Spider” and the item held by the spider is the jenny. (I do not know why…flat out…no clue…” jenny” …there you go.)
-If the parent metal is substantially thick, cutting, engraving, or filing stress relieving cuts into the metal where the joints are to be bent into place will help direct the bending. Never cut the stress relief deeper than 1/3 into the metal. ¼ is safe.

Monday, July 3, 2017

Period Methods of Pendant Making

A Faire Warning to Those Whom Might These Wordes Reade Herein:
Any Who Shalle Forsake A Warning of Suche Plight, Ill Tidings, and Harrowing LanguageFind They Might,
Speech of Suche Evile Utterance Herein May Lye,
After Being Well Inclined, Do You Foule Not Cry,
Claimest Thou Never More, Virtues’ Right,
Being of a Delicate Disposition, as You in This Light,
View These Villainous Passages Poorly Mined,
Rumpty-Tumpty-Something That Hast Rhymed.
Thou Hast Been Given Good Cause to Proceed Noe Further, Ande Reade Thee Not Hence!



We have a job to do, in creating a pendant using only “Period” methods.

For this practical application, we begin with our sheet metal already milled. Why? Because we already milled the bronze, Silver, and Copper, that’s why. It was covered in an earlier lesson. Keep up!

Design, and measurements should be steps one and two. Why? You need to know what you are attempting, and how much material you will need. “Dost thou even Jewel, Brother?”

First, the design work. What are you making? See it in your mind, as you work the design as close to clarity as you can. The more you have resolved the aspects of the final design, the fewer issues you will encounter trying to bring the finished piece to fruition.
Today we will be doing a very simple pendant, with “Circle” as the main theme, and detailed further by “Another Circle” on a “Disk” (circle) with “Crescent” (circle, with circle excised) and “Crown” (pointy topped circle)
The various steps in this process will be:

11)      Measured!
22)      Cut!
33)      Refined!
44)      Cleaned!
55)      Soldered!
66)      Cleaned MORE!
77)      Polished!


11) Measurements. 

   Simple idea…you need to know how much material you will need. Are you making this for a shield? No. You are making a pendant. And a relatively small one at that, say one and a half index finger joints?
Not everyone, even in this modern world uses the same measurement standards. Imperial? Metric?
Every crafter has had a favorite measurement standard, but, if we were to be honest with ourselves in this modern world the precursors of modern measurement schema are… Body Parts. The crafter’s own body parts often enough. Fingers, hands, arms, feet (non standard) what have you. Other bits… who knows… it’s better not to dwell.
Once you have settled those burning questions for yourself, go ahead and move on to other ideas. Like, putting to measurements, newly cemented in the mind and upon the page, ONTO your metal sheet. A combination of scribes and simple calipers are best for this task.
CRAFTERS’ NOTE! To make the scribed lined more visible on the metal sheet, many crafters will first put down a layer of contrasting color and texture to the metal sheet, making it much easier to follow your scribed shiny lines on your shiny surfaced metal. A dip in melted beeswax is the standard used for centuries and across many cultures.

Scribing!

22)      Cut!

Modern Jewelers and metalsmiths have all sorts of saws with which to do this kind of work. Period crafters did not.
Metal was chiseled as means of cutting and piercing designs into it.
I’ll give you a moment to cogitate on that…
Good now?
Okay it looks like this:










33)      Refined!

   The disks and rings produced by the cutting method leaves a bit of roughness on the edges, and these need to be filed down...oh...wait...we don't have access to fancy FILES! We have...rocks. That's right! Those Miracles of Medieval Technology: ROCKS!! 
   And not just any rocks, but "Dressing Stones" which were usually grades of sand stone, and granite. Lovely, uniform grain stones, like the stone forms used to sharpen a blade of any era. 
    Now, while you file...hold...nope...Let's drop the term "file" for the time being, and use "sand" and "abrade"...yes...that works. Okay, while you sand and abrade the edges of your circles and disks, use gentle, and equal pressure, and long, gentle strokes across the surface of the abrasive blocks.
   NOTE! Always start with the most abrasive, and move on to more fine grits, finally finishing with the finest of abrasive grits. 

   If you have kept even pressure distribution while cutting, the metal you have cut should not be warped out of true. What does this mean? It's flat. Is it flat? If not, use a mallet and gently persuade it back into "true." Which, in this case, is "flat." 




44)      Cleaned!

   Now, you have your many components cut, trimmed, dressed...and covered with your finger prints...skin oils, and surface oxidation. This is bad. Shame on you. SHAME!!! This will keep you metals from making any kind of real connection while you attempt to solder them together. BUT! There is hope! 

  How do we remove these? We wash the metal in warm water and soap that will break up grease. Lye is great for that, and very much used in Period. Wiping the metal down with highly refined alcohol works, too.  
   Put your components together regularly during this process, to ensure fit. No surprises.



55)      Soldered!

   We will be using the Blow Torch Method for this project. For a more in-depth explanation of blow torches in Period, see the relevant paper on that subject.  
   The basics of this process are:
   Covering the surfaces with flux. (Don't fall asleep...I'll be as brief as I can...) A flux (derived from Latin fluxus meaning “flow”) is a chemical cleaning agent, flowing agent, or purifying agent. Fluxes may have more than one function at a time. They are used in both extractive metallurgy and metal joining. Brazing (sometimes known as silver soldering or hard soldering) requires a much higher temperature than soft soldering, sometimes over 850 °C. As well as removing existing oxides, rapid oxidation of the metal at the elevated temperatures has to be avoided. This means that fluxes need to be more aggressive and to provide a physical barrier.[17] Traditionally borax was used as a flux for brazing, but there are now many different fluxes available, often using active chemicals such as fluorides as well as wetting agents. Many of these chemicals are toxic and due care should be taken during their use. 
   Adding a minute amount of metal alloy with lower melting temps than any of the metals used for the components you have created in previous steps.)
   Adding heat! EXTREME heat, directly to the work by adding extra oxygen to a flame held below the work. To add this stream of oxygen, we will use a blow pipe. (A graduated metal tube, blown through steadily to produce this effect.)






66)      Cleaned MORE!

   This extreme heating will cause discoloration on the surface,(pretty enough on its own...but not usually appreciated) even with the use of the flux...and the flux itself will need cleaning off. A bath in a mild acid will take all of that right off. 
   CRAFTER'S NOTE: The warmer the acid, the better it tends to work. DON'T boil it. 

   Period concoctions include: Skunked beer. Watered down fruit juices high in vitamin C. Vinegar. 


77)      Polished!
   
   Polishing metals in period is a process that requires patience. You are repeating the the sanding/abrading process from step 3, but with even finer and finer grits. These include fine sands, finer stones (soapstone, alabaster, and marble) mud, and even silt. For the sands, muds and silts, a cloth dipped in each will be needed to save your fingers from abrasion. 


Saturday, March 18, 2017

                            Fibulae

(Practical Basics, with few words, to make up for the extra wordiness of the previous post!)







Thursday, February 16, 2017

Fibulae

Fibulae

A quick note (before I forget) This was supposed to be a quick, “How To” write up for a class I am planning to teach. Thought I should flesh it out with some history…got caught up…let it get out of control…dangitall…
A fibula (Plural: Fibulae) is a brooch or pin for fastening garments, adornments, and random bits. Never let your random bits get out of hand. During ancient times in places like Rome, Greece, Etruria, and other places where the inhabitants had access to the technological marvels of both fabric, and the ability to make metal wire. (Covers a LOT of ground, RIGHT?)  In Latin speaking lands, the same word, Fibula, denoted both a brooch and the fibula bone because the popular form for these brooches were thought to resemble the bone’s shape.
The fibula evolved and changed in a variety of shapes depending upon era, culture, and materials, but all were based on what we NOW think of as the “Safety Pin”. It is said, mostly by linguists, the Latin term, fibulae, refers to Roman brooches; however, the term is widely used to refer to brooches from the entire ancient and early medieval world that continue Roman forms. And, let’s face it…linguist will say anything…it’s what they do.
Nevertheless, its use in English is more limited than in other languages, and post-Classical brooches from the British Isles are just called brooches (for example, the penannular brooches…and who doesn’t love a nice penannular? Freaks, that’s who!), whereas in German they would simply be referred to as fibulae. I’m sure the French and the Welsh have opinions on this, too…maybe someone else will write about that. (There are plenty of French sources of archaeological information on fibulae, but I neither read nor speak French, so those sources are not much referenced here. (Because.)
Unlike most modern brooches, made to be purely decorative in nature; fibulae originally served a practical function: to fasten clothing, such as cloaks, dresses, togas, kilts, chiton. Fibulae replaced straight pins that were used to fasten clothing in the Neolithic period and the Bronze Age. In turn, fibulae were replaced as clothing fasteners by buttons in later eras. Their descendant, the modern safety pin, remains in use today, most recently becoming a symbol of a social movement concerned with empathy and basic humanity in one poor, beleaguered country.
Fibulae have come in myriad forms, and in a hugely varied range of materials. They are usually divided into families, however, that are based upon historical periods, geography, and/or cultures. Fibulae are also divided into classes that are based upon their general forms.
Most fibulae recovered in recent years, usually in fragments, are frequently found by amateur coin and relic hunters using metal detectors. No beach-line, nor fallow farm fields are safe from hobbyists with metal detectors.
Mechanical Structure: (Not that complex…really…)
Bow
The body of a fibula is known as either the bow or the plate, depending on the basic form, and its function. A bow is generally long and narrow, and works with the spring to hold the tension of the clasped pin, and often arched. Plates could be solid or openwork, and were decorative, rather than functional, though cleverly worked plates could function in place of bows, rather than just hiding the bow. The head is the end of the fibula hinge with the spring and the foot is the end of the fibula where the pin closes. Depending on the type of fibula, and the culture in question, the head of the fibula could be worn facing up, down or sideways.
Spring
The body and pin meet at either a spring or hinge. Which? Depends on who made it!
The earliest design is the spring, which provides tension to the pin. The spring could be unilateral or bilateral. A unilateral spring winds around in one direction only. Unilateral springs are the earliest type, first appearing around the 14th century BC. Bilateral springs that wind around to both sides of the fibula body, appeared around the 6th century BC. Bilateral springs can be very short, with only one or two revolutions per side, or up to 10 cm long. Most bilateral springs are made of one piece of metal and therefore have a spring cord, a piece of wire extending from one end of the spring to the other. The spring cord can pass in front of or behind the fibulae body. Bilateral springs wrap around a pin or axle. These are usually made of iron even if the rest of the fibula and spring is copper alloy. In the 1st century AD some fibulae had springs that were concealed under a metal cover that was an extension of the fibula body. These are known as covered springs, or hidden springs. (Not “switch springs” nor “trap springs” …those are completely different kinds of jewelry thingies. Dark…DANGEROUS jewelry thingies…)
Hinge
Near the end of the 1st century BC or even in the 1st century AD a new design appeared in some bow type fibulae, incorporating the HINGE! In the second half of the 1st century AD, hinges were introduced to plate type fibulae. One or two small plaques, acting as support structures, were cast on the back of the plate and a pin was attached to them by a small hinge.
It is important to note that different types of fibula construction were used congruently in many eras.  Though the introduction of the hinge was later than the introduction of the spring, the spring remained in use long after the hinge was introduced. So, don’t be too quick to judge a fibula by its presence OR lack of a spring...Judgy McJudgerson...
Bronze Age fibulae
Early fibulae.
10th – 8th centuries BC
The first fibulae design, violin bow fibulae (drahtbugel in German), appeared(POOF!) in the late Bronze Age. This simple design, with a unilateral spring, looks remarkably like a modern safety pin. The violin bow fibula has a low flat arch; the body runs parallel to the pin so it resembles a violin bow. Some had simple punched or incised decoration on the bow. The violin bow fibula type was introduced in the 14th century BC (Late Mycenaean III era) by the Myceneans in the Greek Peloponnesus. The fibula soon spread to CreteCyprus and Mycenaean trading posts across the Mediterranean.
There were several variants of the violin bow fibula. The bow could bend, or curve sinuously while remaining flat and parallel to the pin. These variants, were found in the 12th and 11th centuries BC. In another variant, the bow, while still flat, widened out into an oval or diamond shape (blattbugel in German). These variants, were found in the 12th to 10th centuries BC.
The second major design of fibulae has a high, rounded arch (bogen in German) instead of the low flat arch of the violin bow fibula. At first, the bow was thin. In later variants, the bow was made of thicker metal or of two pieces of thin wire twisted together. These rounded bow fibulae were first found in the 12th century BC, but lasted in use in some places for more than five centuries.
Early bow fibulae.
8th – 6th centuries BC
The third Bronze Age design of fibula consisted of horizontal wire spirals. The spectacle fibula (brillen in German) consisted of two spirals joined together. It resembles a pair of spectacles or eye glasses. These fibulae were found in the 9th to 7th centuries BC. A variant that appeared in the 6th century BC had several spirals with a square, or some odd angular geometric variety, cover plate mounted central.
The Villanovan culture in Italy introduced a series of variations of the bow fibula in the 8th and 7th centuries BC. In these so-called Italianate fibulae, the bow begins, at the head, with a semi-circular form, but bends at its apex to angle straight down to the foot that was often lengthened and extended. The bow was often decorated with molded knobs (KNOBS!!!) or spikes. The rear half of the bow was sometimes bent into a wavy, kinked shape. The latter variants were known as Serpentine Fibulae, which, due to their slower metabolisms, only needed to be fed once a month.
Meanwhile, the 8th and 7th centuries BC saw the introduction of the so-called Phrygian bow fibulae in Asia Minor. These fibulae had a near-perfect semi-circular arch sometimes decorated with knobs or round flanges. In the same period, the Hand or Arm fibula spread from Cyprus, where it appears to have originated, to Persia and Assyrian lands. In this design the bow was bent 90 degrees at the apex giving the fibula a triangular shape when viewed from the side. The bow was usually decorated with a series of rings and dots. The catch plate usually had the form of a hand, making the entire fibula resemble an arm.
In the 7th and 6th centuries BC, a series of variations of the bow fibula appeared in the southern Balkans, known variously as GreekMacedonian, or Thracian bow fibulae. The high arched bow of these fibulae had large fins or knobs. (KNOBS!!!) The bow usually ended in a very large triangular or square catch plate. Some of the large square catch plates were decorated with complex incised geometric or anthropomorphic designs. Some of the fibula had a flat back indicating that they were likely cast in simple, single sided molds.
Iron Age fibulae
The Iron Age saw an expansion in the use of fibulae. The rounded bow fibula underwent several variations and were usually highly decorated with incised or molded geometric designs. In one variation, the foot of the fibula that had previously terminated at the end of the arch with a simple catch plate, lengthened significantly. (this was, surprisingly, NOT known as the “Puberty Period” for fibulae development…huh, go figure.)  These extended foot fibulae, were found in the 7th to 5th centuries BC. The first long, bilateral springs appeared on some of these variants in the Hallstatt D2 era (5th century BC). These fibulae, such as the Doublezier type, looked like the Roman-era crossbow fibulae but were not the latter’s direct precursor.
More early fibulae.
7th – 5th centuries BC
Typical silver Dacian fibulae 1st century BC (Museum of Transylvania Cluj Romania)
In another variation of the rounded bow fibula, the bow became fat and swollen-looking. In many of these fibulae the catch plate became large and triangular. Another variant, the Certossa type, had a small square or ribbon cross-section bow and a short bilateral spring (possibly the first use of a bilateral spring). Certossa fibulae are almost always very small.
In the La Tene I, or La Tene A to B2, era (4th to 3rd centuries BC), fibula design became relatively standardized over a large geographic area, although minor stylistic variations and differences in decoration remained. The La Tene I fibula usually had a narrow bow. The spring that could be either unilateral or bilateral, was wound in a large diameter circle. The foot was turned up and usually ended in a decorated knob or with an applied bead or stone. In some cases the raised foot was bent back towards the bow, although it did not touch the bow. The Thraco-Getic fibula is a variant found in the eastern Balkans and used by the Getae. The fibula's foot is vertical and ends in a small knob, (KNOB!!!) though later models had a sinuous, recurved form.
La Tene era fibulae.
4th – 1st centuries BC
The La Tene era also saw the introduction of the first animal, or zoomorphic, designs. These included birds and horses and could either be flat, or done in heavy relief, with the empty inner spaces used to hide the mechanics of a long bilateral spring at the head.
In the La Tene II (2nd century BC), the foot of the fibula bent back to touch the bow and was wrapped around it. Many La Tene II fibulae had long bilateral springs. It is important to be aware that this type of construction was in use several centuries later in the tied-foot and returned-foot types of fibulae. These latter types are sometimes known as pseudo-La Tene fibulae.
In the La Tene I (1st century BC), the raised foot was no longer wrapped around the bow but was attached directly to it by casting or welding creating a loop above the foot. In one variant, the Nauheim type, the bow widened into a flat triangle or diamond. In another variant, the Schussel type, the ribbon-like bow widened at the head into a rounded arrowhead shape that covered the spring.
Roman-era fibulae
The 1st century AD
·        
Legionnaire's fibulae. 1st – 2nd centuries AD

·        
Romano British fibulae.
1st century AD

Early Roman era bow fibulae.
1st century AD

Kraftig Profilierte fibulae.
1st – 2nd centuries AD
The rapid spread of the Roman Empire by the 1st century AD resulted in a tremendous growth in the number and design of fibulae throughout Europe and the Near East. The spread of technologically advanced workshops in the Roman Empire led to greater complexity in fibulae designs.
One of the first fibula designs of the Roman-era began in the La Tene III era, in the late 1st century BC. The Straight Wire fibula, also known as the Soldier’s type or Legionnaire's type, is a very plain design. It resembles the violin bow fibula of over one thousand years earlier except that the bow has slightly more of an arch and the spring in (short) bilateral. The Straight Wire fibula is found through the 1st century AD.
In the 1st century AD, for the first time, several fibula designs originated in Roman Britain. Perhaps the most distinctive British fibula design was the Dolphin. This was actually a series of designs including the Polden Hill type, the Langton Down type, the Colchester type and the T-Shaped type. Dolphin fibulae have a smooth arched bow that tapers from the head to end in a long point. The long bilateral spring is covered. From the top the Dolphin fibula looks like a T or the late-Roman crossbow fibula. From the side it resembles a leaping dolphin.
Another British design was the Hod Hill type. Usually quite small, Hod Hill fibulae have a shallow arched bow that appears to be made up of lumpy segments. Many Hod Hill fibulae have a pair of small side lugs. (...lugs...)
The Fantail fibula, which have a short bow that flares into a flat, wide fan-shaped foot, were common in Britain and on the European continent. The Fantail design lasted into the 2nd century AD. A common and widespread design was the Augen (or Eye) fibula, which has a longer bow and a long, flat, wide foot. It has a short bilateral spring. Many Augen fibulae are decorated with a pair of ringed dots, or eyes, on the flat foot. Augen fibulae appear to have been introduced to the Roman Empire by Germanic peoples, notably Marcomanni, serving as Roman auxiliaries.
The Aucissa fibula was another widespread design. It has a high semi-circular arched bow that extended into a short foot. The bow is flat and wide and has a rounded central ridge. The bow ends, at the head, in a hinge. The Aucissa was one of the first fibulae to use a hinge instead of a spring. The foot ends in a rounded knob. Many Aucissa fibulae have the word “AVCISSA” molded above the hinge. This is thought to be the name of a workshop.
The 1st century AD saw several other bow variations. The Wolf or Wolf’s Head fibula has a flat, ribbon-like bow that widens into a square section at the head. The common design of two circles and a chevron near the rear of the bow is often interpreted as a wolf’s head. The Thracian Anchor type has a wide crescent at the head giving the fibula an anchor shape. The Thracian Anchor type is also called the Illyrian and is found in Pannonia (Hungary), Dacia (Romania) and Serbia.
The late 1st century AD saw the introduction of the Kraftig Profilierte group of fibula designs. Kraftig Profilierte fibulae have a wide fan-, or bell-shaped head and a long thin pointy foot. They have long bilateral hinges. There are three main variations of the Kraftig Profilierte fibula. The North Pannonian Double Knot type, found in Pannonia has two knobs, or knots, on the bow. The Single Knot type, found in the central Balkans, has a single knob. The Black Sea type, found in the steppes north of the Black Sea, has a thin body, with no flaring near the head, and two knots. Kraftig Profilierte fibulae were found in the late 1st to late 2nd centuries AD and are mostly associated with the Przeworsk proto-Gothic culture.
The 1st century AD saw the widespread use of plate fibulae. Plate fibulae consist of a flat plate. Since there is little space between the fibula body and the pin (there is no arch to the body), plate fibulae could not be used to fasten much material and were therefore mainly decorative. Most plate fibulae have a hinge assembly on the back. Plate fibulae are generally associated with women’s graves. The most common forms of plate fibula in the 1st century AD were round (disc), diamond, oval and lunula (crescent- or moon-shaped).
The 2nd century AD
·        
Roman era fibulae.
2nd century AD

·        
Late Roman bow fibulae.
2nd – 3rd centuries AD

Diverse fibulae.
4th century BC – 3rd century AD

·        
Tutulus plate fibulae.
2nd – 3rd centuries AD
In Roman Britain the fibula designs common in the 1st century AD continued to some extent into the second, although usually in more complex variations. A new design, the Head Stud type, has a long bow with a stud, or occasionally a ring, at the head.
The Knee fibula, a common design in the 2nd century AD, originated in Roman Pannonia (modern Hungary). With its short, fat bow that incorporates a 90 degree bend, archeologists thought it resembled a knee and leg. Many Knee fibulae have small rectangular, or larger semi-circular head plates. Knee fibulae appear, like the Augen type, to have been introduced into the Roman Empire by Germanic allies. Despite their small size, their appearance in Roman military graves implies that the Knee fibula was the most popular fibula among Roman soldiers in the 2nd century AD. They are rarely found outside military sites or contexts.
The Pannonian Trumpet fibula has a wide flaring head like the bell of a trumpet. However, unlike a straight trumpet, the Pannonian Trumpet fibula is sharply bent near the head. This Germanic design was found in and around Pannonia but was exported as widely as Britain.
The P-Shaped type is another common 2nd-century AD fibula design that originated among the Germanic peoples. The P-Shaped fibula, or Almgren Type 162, has a semi-circular arch and a long foot that curves back under itself to return to the base of the arch. They have bilateral springs. The bows of P-Shaped fibulae are usually semi-circular in cross-section and are decorated with ribs. P-Shaped fibulae were found from the 2nd to the early 4th centuries.
There were other bow fibula variations of the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. The Divided Bow type has an arched bow and a long foot. The arch was made up of two, or even three, separate, but parallel, arches. These arches are either wide and flat or narrow and tall. The Trident fibula has a rounded arch and long foot and a wide, flat head plate with three points. The entire fibula looks like a trident. Claims that this was the standard fibula of the Roman navy are unfounded.
The use of plate fibulae continued in the 2nd century CE. Simple flat shapes were replaced with enameled versions or more complex shapes. These included animal (zoomorphic) shapes (birdshorsesrabbits, flies, etc.), letters or words, abstract symmetrical or asymmetrical designs (including the so-called Celtic Trumpet designs), and skeuomorphic designs (symbolic designs). Most designs continued in use throughout the 2nd and 3rd centuries. In one later variation during this time, the Tutulus type, the circular disc plate was extended upwards to form a cone.
The 3rd to 4th centuries AD
The use of enameled inlay continued until the end of the 3rd century AD.
P-shaped fibulae.
3rd – 5th centuries AD
A variation of the P-shaped fibula, the tied foot fibula has a foot that returns to the bow but then wraps, or ties, around the bow. Many Tied Foot fibulae have long bilateral springs. The tied foot fibula was found in the 3rd and 4th centuries AD and is associated with the Wielbark Gothic culture.
The classic fibula of the late-Roman era, and in fact the best known of all fibula types, is the crossbow type. The crossbow fibula consists of a highly arched semi-circular bow, usually of an (arguably) square cross-section, and a long flat foot. The fibula has a wide transverse bar (or arms) at the head containing the pin-hinge. Crossbow fibulae usually have three round or onion-shaped knobs: one at the head and one at each end of the transverse bar.
Crossbow fibulae.
3rd – 5th centuries AD
The first crossbow fibulae, from the early 3rd century AD, has short, thin arms, no knobs, a long bow and a short foot. The later crossbow fibulae have been divided into groups by several archeologists including Keller, Prottel and Soupault. Type I, dating to the 3rd and 4th centuries, has small, simple knobs and a foot that is shorter than the bow. Type II, dating to the 4th century, has larger knobs and a foot that is approximately the same length as the bow. Type III, also dating to the 4th century, has a foot that is longer than the bow. There are several variants of the Type III based on the decoration of the foot: dotted circles, chevrons, or curlicues. Another variant, dating to the 4th and 5th centuries, the Bugelkopf type, has no transverse bar, or arms at all but retains the round knob at the head.
Post-Roman fibulae

High status Frankish brooches in the British Museum, France 5th Century AD
The so-called Gothic group of bow fibulae have a round or triangular flat head plate, often with 3, 5 or 7 knobs, (KNOBS!!!!) a small arched bow and a long flat diamond shaped foot. They were widely used by the Germanic VisigothsOstrogoths, (Gothkebabs, Goth-ettouffe', Goth-sammiches...), and Gepids, and the non-Germanic Slavs and Avars, and are found over a wide part of southern and western Europe in the 5th and 6th centuries AD. There are also a wide variety of Anglo-Saxon fibulae from the 5th to 7th century such as the equal-arm type and the small-long type. Most Viking fibulae are variations on the ring or annular design.

Ring fibulae and penannular brooches
The ring, or annular, fibula or brooch is extremely hard to date as the design for utilitarian pieces was almost unchanged from the 2nd to the 14th centuries AD. Decorative style is the real indicator of era and culture when judging whether the penannular is Classical fibula or a medieval brooch.
The penannular brooch, with an incomplete ring and two terminals, originally a common utilitarian clothes fastening, normally of base metal, in Iron Age and Roman Britain developed in the post-Roman period into highly elaborate and decorative marks of status in Ireland and Scotland, made in precious metals and often decorated with gems, and worn by men and women, as well as the clergy as part of their vestments when conducting services. The finest period is from the 8th and 9th centuries, before the Vikings disrupted the societies. Ornate Irish examples in the period are usually "pseudo-penannular"; in fact closed rings, but imitating the penannular form. Examples like the Tara Brooch are among the most spectacular pieces of jewelry of the Early Medieval period. When the Vikings began to raid, and settle the British Isles, they took to wearing these brooches, but now in plain silver.


Medieval brooches
There is a huge variety of medieval brooch types (the term fibula is rarely used for medieval items). The two most common are ring brooches, including square and lobed or flower designs as well as round ones, and flat plate brooches, or badges, in the form of people or animals, with specialized types such as pilgrim badges or livery badges, which were often produced in large quantities in cheap metals such as lead, but also in very expensive forms such as the Dunstable Swan Jewel. However, these are mostly purely decorative, or worn to denote something about the wearer, and were probably not much used for fastening.
References and Further Reading…and places to Find Cool Images.
Beck, Heinrich, et al. Fibel und Fibeltracht. (Excerpt from the Reallexikon der Germanischen Altertumskunde.) Walter de Gruyter, Berlin, 2000.
·         Binding, Ulrike. Band 16: Studien zu den figürlichen Fibeln der Frühlatenzeit. Rudolf Habelt, Bonn, 1993.
·         Birmingham, J., "The Development of the Fibula in Cyprus and the Levant", Palestine Exploration Quarterly 95, 1963, 80-112.
·         Bohme, Astrid. Die Fibeln der Kastelle Saalburg und Zugmantel in Saalburg Jahrbuch, XXIX, 1973.
·         Caner, E., "Fibeln in Anatolien 1", Prähistorische Bronzefunde XIV 8. Beck, München 1983, ISBN 978-3406090158.
·         Dudley, Dorothy. Excavations on Nor'Nour in the Isles of Scilly, 1962-6 in The Archaeological Journal, CXXIV, 1967. (Description of over 250 Roman fibulae found at the site)
·         Gaspar, Nicolas. Die keltischen und gallo-römischen Fibeln vom Titelberg - Les fibules gauloises et gallo-romaines du Titelberg - Dossiers d'Archeologie du Musee National d'Histoire et d'Art XI. NMHA, Luxembourg, 2007.
·         Gergova, Diana. Früh- und ältereisenzeitliche Fibeln in Bulgarien. C.H. Beck, Munchen, 1987.
·         Glogovic, Dunja. Fibeln im kroatischen Küstengebiet. Franz Steiner Verlag, Stuttgart, 2003.
·         Hattatt, Richard. A Visual catalogue of Richard Hattatt's Ancient Brooches. Oxbow Books, Oxford, 2000.
·         Jobst, Werner. Die römischen Fibeln aus Lauriacum. Wimmer, Linz, 1975.
·         MacGregor, Arthur. Ashmolean Museum Oxford: A Summary catalogue of the Continental Archaeological Collections. BAR 674, Oxford, 1997.
·         Mills, Nigel. Celtic and Roman Artefacts. Buxton Press, Derbyshire, 2000.
·         Pedde, Friedhelm, "Vorderasiatische Fibeln von der Levante bis Iran", Saarbrücken, 2000, and the review of this volume by Judy Bjorkman in the Journal of Near Eastern Studies, Vol. 63 No. 2 (2004) pp 158–160.
·         Pedde, Friedhelm, "Development and Extension of Near Eastern Fibulae in the Iron Age", in: R. Eichmann – H. Parzinger (ed.), Migration und Kulturtransfer. Der Wandel vorder- und zentralasiatischer Kulturen im Umbruch vom 2. zum 1. vorchristlichen Jahrtausend. Akten des Internationalen Kolloquiums 23.-26. November 1999 Berlin. Rudolf Habelt, Bonn 2001, 485-496, ISBN 3-7749-3068-6
·         Riha, Emilie. Die römischen Fibeln aus Augst und Kaiseraugst. Forschungen in Augst 3. August, 1979.
·         Van der Roest, Juan. Die Römischen Fibeln von ‘De Horden’ – Fibeln aus einer Zivilsiedlung am niedergermanischen Limes in Berichten van de Rijksdienst voor het Oudheidkundig Bodemonderzoek - jaargang 38, 1988 / Proceedings of the State Service for Archaeological Investigations in the Netherlands (BROB 38).
·         Smith, R.A. British Museum Guide to Early Iron Age Antiquities: 1925. Anglia Publishing, Ipswich, 1994.

·         Sapouna-Sakellarakis, Efi, "Die Fibeln der griechischen Inseln", Prähistorische Bronzefunde XIV 4. Beck, München 1978, ISBN 978-3406007736.